Cannoli
with
buffalo
ricotta
filling
According
to
a
smutty
legend,
the
women
in
Saracen
harems
in
9th
century
Sicily
invented
cannoli
as
a
phallic
tribute
to
their
husbands’
‘sceptres’.
(History’s
patisserie
is
full
of
salacious
sweets!).
While
societally
we
are
evolving
in
regards
to
the
objects
of
our
worship,
the
cannoli
remains
a
unicorn
in
the
sweet
universe – a
steadfastly
unchanged
recipe.
I
too
remain
unwavering
in
my
lard
love,
and
ever
faithful
to
the
edict
of
filling
the
shells
as
close
to
eating
as
possible.
Pre-fill
is
sacrilege.
Choose
metal
cannoli
tubes
(online
shopping
is
best)
with
a
wide
(approximately
2.5
cm/1
in)
diameter,
as
they
will
create
more
real
estate
for
the
filling.
I
don’t
like
to
use
wooden
dowel
as
there
is
no
internal
oil
flow
to
fry
quickly
and
‘blisterfully’.
On
the
Pasta
Grannies
YouTube
channel,
watch
Clara
the
ninety-three-year-old
Sicilian
nonna
use
bamboo
cane
lengths
(that
she
cuts
herself)
and
fry
IN
lard.
That’s
hardcore
cannoli,
Clara.
Brava!
The
filling
is
wildly
beyond
any
Adaptrix
I
can
document.
The
base
is
a
custard
optimised
with
ricotta
and
then
the
inner
canvas
is
yours
to
choose:
chocolate?
Nuts?
Candied
fruit?
Citrus
zest?!
I’ve
added
a
goal
amount
for
the
add-ins
to
keep
the
filling
a
crunch-studded
cream,
not
a
cream-bereft
crunch.
Starting
the
day
before,
make
the
dough.
In
a
bowl,
vigorously
stir
the
wine,
lard
and
egg
yolk.
Weigh
the
flour,
sugar
and
salt
on
top.
Stir
to
a
sticky
paste-like
dough,
then
knead
for
20
seconds
on
a
lightly
floured
surface,
wrap
in
plastic
wrap
and
chill
overnight.
Also
on
the
day
prior,
drain
the
ricotta
for
the
filling
base
by
placing
the
ricotta
in
a
paper
towel–lined
sieve
suspended
over
a
small
bowl.
Chill
overnight.
Undrained
ricotta
holds
residual
whey,
which
can
make
the
filling
wet
and
thus
the
filled
cannoli
won’t
last
as
long.
Draining
gives
you
a
firmer,
fluffier
(post-sieve)
filling.
Keeps
Store
the
fried
tubes,
airtight
and
unfilled,
for
up
to
2
weeks,
but
refresh
them
before
filling
by
heating
in
a
140°C
(285°F)
oven
until
the
tubes
feel
crisp
and
the
exterior
appears
oily
(this
is
a
good
thing).
Keep
the
filling
chilled
for
up
to
4
days,
and
always
test
before
filling,
as
ricotta
can
sour
quickly.
Makes
Around
16
cannoli.
Takes
A
steely
commitment
the
first
time.
Around
30
minutes
to
mix
the
dough
and
overnight
to
chill.
Next
day,
1
hour
to
roll
and
fry
and
fill.
approx.
1.5
litres
(51
fl
oz/
6
cups)
rice
bran
oil,
for
frying
(or
other
neutral-flavoured
oil
such
as
canola
or
peanut
oil)
Cannoli
dough
80
g/ml
(2
¾
oz)
white
wine/
vermouth
bianco
(or
water
if
you
want
booze-free)
30
g
(1
oz)
lard*,
softened
(or
unsalted
butter,
squidgy
soft)
20
g
(¾
oz)
egg
yolk
(from
approx.
1
egg – reserve
the
white
for
sealing)
160
g
(5½
oz)
plain
(all-purpose)
flour
20
g
(¾
oz)
caster
(superfine)
sugar
3
g
(¹
⁄
₁₀
oz/¼
teaspoon)
fine
sea
salt
continued
…